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Do you experience "Sloppy Nose
Steering" and wander when you taxi your Baron or Bo? Have your nose steering rod ends and
bushing been changed out in the last 3,000 hours or so?
I
changed part numbers: 5, 13, 20 and 29 in this
Baron Part Catalog Extract
and
greatly reduced the slop in my nose steering mechanism. Bonanza part designs MAY be similar,
see this Bonanza
Part Catalog Extract but CHECK YOUR SPECIFIC PARTS CATALOG for your serial
numbered aircraft to be sure.
Here's a tip about offset rod end #20 in the
Baron diagram - you don't
have to spend over $1,000 with
RAPID to
change this offset rod end. The bearing in it is pressed in. That bearing is
shown as #19 on the
Part Catalog Extract,
just press or tap out the old bearing and press in the new one.
You do have a parts catalog for your
Beechcraft don't you?
Editorial comment follows, a broken Nose
Steering Rod End on takeoff or landing might ruin your day, then again, it might
not! You decide.............
PS: Ask your mechanic to drill and place a grease zerk in
the idler bushing #13 (PN:
NAS76A7-20) when you change it and also change
the bolts and nuts for all those rod ends! A zerk in it looks like this:

Picture* courtesy of Beech Lister Doug
G
*PS: This pic is a C35 Bonanza
w/o drain hole in the idler.
Here's a pic of the business end
of the nose steering, courtesy of Beech Lister
Kevin O. This is a picture of a
newly delivered G36. Can you see the bonehead move they made in assembling this?

They assembled it with the monkey
motion joint's grease zerk pointing UP! How the hell is a guy to get a grease
gun fitting on that?
Note also the monkey motion
bearing has a "FLUSH" grease fitting. If you have the older style with a good
old fashioned grease zerk, be really delicate when servicing it. There have been
several reports of breaking off the zerk and having a heck of a time finding a
replacement. 
Well, the guy would have to use
this $2
right angle grease zerk adapter tool
from Harbor Freight!

Here's a pic of the monkey motion
bearing (Nose Gear Steering Yoke Assembly PN: 35-825007) location and some
interesting info found by Marty M. regarding his 1976 F33:


This "Monkey Motion" joint is reported to be PN: 35-825035
Check YOUR Parts Catalog to be sure!
Here is Marty's find:
Turns out that the recommended replacement
bearing (Heim LS-4) has an OD of 0.750" but if your plane came with the older
shoulder style, you'll need one with an OD of only 0.740" unless you want to
machine your old eye bolt hole larger.
I found a couple suppliers of the old style bearings with shoulders:
New Hampshire Ball Bearings, Inc. ASTRO-ABYT4V
Aurora Bearing Company HAB-4T
Much nicer solution.
Bonanza Nose Steering Makeover
by Paul S.
You do not want to find things
looking like this in your
steering yoke joints up by the
nose gear!

Here is the pirep from N35 Bonanza
owner Paul S., on his nose steering "makeover":
AN24-25 clevis at idler & AN174-16 at front elbow (the two beautiful
bolts pictured
above)
This is much easier with plane on jacks as you can
sit on the floor rather than lying on your back disconnect nose down tension
to be able to move linkage around, especially when checking after re-assembly.
figures are from B-55 manual
idler arm press-in bushing Beech A799 {#13}
install a zerk in idler, Beech #1736, on nose side
of idler (photo)
(#21 drill, 10-28 tap, go shallow for interference
fit) remember to re-drill drain hole in bottom of idler arm (thru new bushing)
Clevis bolt AN24-25 (#17) @ top of idler, shim
washers 960-416L lights
small "press" bushings(#18) (will not press in
place anymore, make sure ears not too worn though) for aft pushrod ears (x2)
105740X-ZL0I04 use some grease at re-assembly to hold parts in place, be
patient!
I did all this by myself (IA supervised) it just
takes time to re-assemble.
close tolerance bolts NAS54's superseded by
AN174's (#'s 32 & 36)
need ; -16 drilled with regular castle nut
-24A undrilled with all metal friction
nut #MS21042-4 (#37)
use light washer under head of AN174-24A (#36) to
keep spring shaft case from hitting airframe
yoke press-in bushing Beech NAS76A7-020 (#42)
yoke zerk Beech 3016 (#44) press-in, use #40 drill, drill thru new bushing
too
((can also use #1736 zerk in yoke if hole
too big for #3016 zerk, drill & tap as idler))
I did not replace spacers (#40) or any Heim
bearings yoke washer Beech #100951X063YH (#38) was worn
#47 cone must be able to turn freely when torqued
#45 yoke bolt head & zerk installed facing AFT
What a great steering makeover narrative by
CSOB Paul S., just my humble opinion of course.
Here's some other tidbits of info
contributed by Beech Lister & A36 owner Leldon L.:
The male portion that goes in the yoke: eye nose steering Part # 50-820130-8
~$525 +/- from beech.
It has one Heim LS-4 bearing (going from memory) that can be "repaired" by a
skilled A&P <$30. Yeah, you just PRESS it out! LOL
Yoke... # 35-825007...not priced... suspect $$$$$
The bronze bushing that is pressed in the yoke fitting and the eye fitting
fits into.
NAS76A7-20 IIRC $1.47 from beech :) (Wahoo, they have not discovered the
pricing error <grins>) replacing the bushing removed "most" of my "slop". (and
mine too!)
Here is another pirep finding from
Baron & Bonanza owner Mike T.:
I also have recently delved into the steering linkage, in this case for an
H35. The Model 35 IPC shows PN 35-825006 for the "Eye assy, nose gear steering."
But RAPID's website supercedes 35-825006 with either 50-820130-4 or
50-820130-12. But 50-820130-4 brings up 50-830130-12. It lists for $1234.54 the
last time I checked.
It's not clear to me if this assembly includes the funky Heim, or if it's
just the "yoke" or "eye." (I'm not even sure if the yoke and the eye are same
part.)
The plot sickens:
The Baron IPC shows PN 50-820130-10 for the "Eye, nose steering swivel."
RAPID's website brings up a "substitution,
" 50-820130-2," "Eye assembly, NG steering swivel." Cost: $417.46.
Summing this up:
The various IPCs don't do an adequate job of illustrating and identifying the
various parts. It's not clear what exactly an "assembly" includes, and what one
would get if he ordered using any of the above PNs. It's possible that a Baron
part would fit perfectly on a Bo (don't tell Bob). (Or a part from a Dutchess,
etc., or any of the several Beech models that appear to use the same steering
parts. It's common.) And it's possible a Baron part *is* significantly less
expensive than the same part bearing a Bonanza PN. I've run into this with other
components. I'm convinced the only way to order the part(s) correctly and
confidently would be to call Beech tech support and have dwgs pulled. The
current situation is a mess.
Thanks Paul, Leldon & Mike for your contributions!

If all this is completely confusing,
close this browser page, call your mechanic and have them call RAPID Tech
Support to sort it all out for you. Then sit back and stroke the check!

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