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  Gee Bee Wing Root Seal Products & Install Tips


Are your wing root seals old and cruddy looking? Or did they just disappear after your last flight?


In any event, here are some pireps on this project from the Beech List and BeechTalk that will help you accomplish this project in CSOB style! Check out THIS thread on BeechTalk for a phenomenal set of pireps and pics on wing root seal installation!


If grinding your wing skin or picking out the wing root seal "finger" from underneath the wing skin is not something you and your mechanic are up for (not to mention the expense if you are going to pay mechanic rates to accomplish this), I can appreciate your pain. Check out my shortcut "repair" article HERE, in which I cut the new finger off the GeeBee seal and glued the seal to the cleaned skin with GeeBee's awesome silicone adhesive.


The shortcut method that I used in the above article should only be considered a temporary “repair”, not to be confused with the removal of the OEM seal finger under the wing skin and properly installing the new seal with the finger under the wing skin. In reality, the only way to guarantee that the seal will remain in place as long as an OEM seal fitted at the factory is to install it like the factory did. Consider that you may have to re-do it at some time in the near term. What that near term turns out to be is anyone’s guess and I was willing to roll the dice on the strength of the Gee Bee silicone cement.


WARNING: This shortcut "repair" may result in you receiving "stink eye" from purists (your airplane will likely not be eligible for display in the Smithsonian) so choose wisely or maintain op sec on your methods and let others admire your cosmetic accomplishment. As with all things regarding your certified aircraft, consult your A&P before beginning your project.


Great adhesive removal results can be had with Peerco 321, but YIKES, ~$100/gallon ! Share some with 3-4 friends, or tell Guy to add a pint to your order for $35 .










Pirep per James A.: We did have to cut about 1/16th of the skin to get a good gap in a couple of places. The wing skin was right up against the fuselage. I used the Dremel tool with the flexible extension and a small cutting wheel. Could not have been easier. I also used the dremel to feather the wing-walk edge. Was very quick and easy. The flexible extension is only $25 at Lowe’s. It allows very fine control and a perfect angle. In the pictures you’ll see I used Gorilla tape instead of masking tape. The masking tape wouldn’t adhere well to the wing-walk surface.



Here are the results of Beech Talker, Ron B.'s use of the wing root seal install pireps and his own sweat equity and patience!






Here are some great SILICONE (yeah it's better than rubber) seal product offerings from Gee-Bee Products



Main Landing Gear Anti-Chafe Door Seals

Six Seals (3 sections each leg) $75.00





Straight Tail Horizontal Stabilizer Seal




Upper & Lower Wing Seal Combo $475 (Standard factory width)


Upper & Lower Wing Seal Combo with 3/16" WIDER WIDTH* Upper Seal $575


*Upper seal design is 3/16 inch wider to cover old paint and/or adhesive residue - see image below.

FREE Gear Door Chafe Seals with Wing Seal purchase!

PS: In these inflationary CV supply chain times, silicone material has increased another 47% !





V-Tail Ruddervators Standard Width $95.00

V-Tail Ruddervators 3/16" Wider Width (to cover painted surface) $125.00

Straight Tail Horizontal Stabilizer to Fuselage 33/55/56 (15 feet) $125.00

Straight Tail Horizontal Stabilizer to Fuselage 33/55/56 (15 feet) 3/16" Wider $155.00


Straight Tail Horizontal Stabilizer to Fuselage Late Baron Larger Tail and B58 $125.00


Rudder Seal $55.00


Main Landing gear anti chafe seals $75.00 (mounts on the underside of wing in the main gear door channels)


Bonanza Cowl Door Anti Chafe $75.00


Nose gear door anti chafe $65.00 or complete Exterior Set for 33-35-36 $295.00


Framed Storm Window Seal $65.00 (new production silicone-ribbed like OEM)


All Shipped with Clear Silicone cement, gloves, acid brushes and razor trim blade included.


Guy Ginby - Owner

Click to E-mail Guy or N77GB at MSN dot com

We Accept PayPal to the Above E-mail Address

We Ship FedEx Ground (Requires Phone Number)

Store Minimum Order $105.00

Gee-Bee Products



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PS: GB likes to use a fine brass brush to remove old cement.


Here are more thoughts from Guy on wing seals:


  • The cleaner the surface the better for adhesion


  • There is a shop that knows how to loosen the wing and slip them in with a support assy....


  • The factory installs the seal before the marriage of the wing/airframe...


  • I wish the factory would switch to our silicone seal and then the wing could be painted and the the seal installation could be done after the paint work for and a cleaner finish, the yellow cement looks terrible


  • Lifetime warranty with the Silicone seal


  • No Color change, no change in durometer (will not harden over time)



Here are some adhesive removal thoughts:


  • Beware of using MEK, it can soften and remove paint and in high concentrations the fumes can negatively affect your plexiglass windows.
  • Boeing has begun using a replacement for MEK called Citrasafe. Info HERE and HERE
  • Toluene and "Goof-Off" have been reported to give good results as has 3M #08984
  • Peerco 321 is also very good and is available in 16oz containers for $35 HERE




Pirep #1


Well gang, after a lot of procrastination, I finally installed new wing root and horizontal stabilizer seals on my A-36, finishing it up this afternoon.  They look REAL good, and it was worth the effort.  Here's my method for the wing root seals, which worked fairly well, it took about 4 hours per side without a helper.  The stab seals were a piece of cake compared to the wing seals.

Cut majority of old seal off using razor blade, leaving a small lip sticking above the wing.  I then used a small pick bent at a 90 degree angle, with about a 3/8" 'hook' on the end.  Using the hook, I stuck it under the wing skin, between the skin and the old rubber wing seal lip under the skin, and forced it along the chord of the wing.  This broke the rubber lip on the under side of the wing skin free from the wing.  Then I fished out the rubber pieces that were now broken free.  Once all of the old rubber was off, cleaned up old glue using MEK.  MAKE SURE YOUR WORK AREA IS WELL VENTILATED - THIS IS NASTY STUFF.  Now for the fun part - installing the new seals.  From what I had read I was dreading this, but it went very well.  I used Go-Jo hand cleaner for a lubricant, and was able to install both root seals without having to cut off the lip as some have suggested.  The seal, when lubed with Go-Jo will fit in the narrowest of gaps using a little elbow grease.  Just lubed it up, put the lip between the wing and fuselage, and using my fingers, was able to push the seal in to place.  Again, no where did I have to cut off the lip, except over the wing attach fittings.  When the seal was in place, I cleaned the seal and wing skin with a mild solvent (Pre-Kleano) to get the Go-Jo off, as well as to generally clean up the rubber.  Then using masking tape to mask off areas where I didn't want to apply glue, I applied contact cement on the wing skin and rubber, and once dry, pressed it down for a good flat seal.  It really looks great.  Go-Jo is VERY slippery, and it worked extremely well as a rubber lubricant.  This worked for me, your mileage and HP may vary.

Pirep #2

To remove the old, I tried as best I could to remove the old in tact (no razor blading as best I could). I tried to pull the rubbers up some, then use #M adhesive remover and when needed, I used MEK on a rag trying to touch the rubber more and the plane less. The removal, clean up, and prep takes all the real time of this job (just ask Mike McNamara -- LOL).


The adhesive is applied to both the wing area (more) and the fuselage area (less) where the rubber will cover it. I used 3M blue line tape to mask off the work area.  I use acid brushes to brush on the thinned out 3M 1300L and let it dry.


I brush the thinned out 1300 L onto the rubber as well (not including the tongue). I brush on Corrosion-X onto the tongue in a careful, thin amount - just enough for a lube during the insertion (sounds like...LOL).


Taking the MEK and another acid brush, flash the adhesive (make it sticky again) for about one foot, insert the tongue, line up the rubber, and press into place --- now one foot of the rubber is attached - real good.  Now flash another foot and insert it, then another foot..... When done, remove the blue line tape, use MEK on a rag to remove any "extra" adhesive or use the 3M adhesive remover, clean, and then wax that paint area that was "hit" by the work.


Expect an eight foot length to take 2 to 4 hours to clean and prep and less than 1 hour to install the new piece.


Pirep #3

Changed mine out several years ago.  Was told to cut as little of web as possible, masked and glued the area where it would seat, glued the rubber (3-M weather stripping glue, contact cement). Allowed the glue to dry, then re-activated by re-applying glue as I worked the seals into place.  I used a large screwdriver that I dressed-up with a grinding wheel, rounding the corners and blade edge. Took all day, but the results were excellent.  One of the old Beechcraft line guys at the ABS convention in Wichita saw the work and remarked that it looked better than theirs!  Both strips have remained attached 100% and still look good. If anyone wants the 3-M number for the glue, let me know and I'll dig up the old tube.



Feel free to Email me any pictures of your wing root seal install