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Welcome to the CSOBeech
collection of Aviation related PDFs.
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Used in Landing Gear & Flap Limit Switches. Carrying one of these in your little box of spares
in your plane might be a good idea. Imagine being on a trip and your flaps get stuck because
one of the limit switches failed. CSOBeech now offers these scarce BZ-R31 Microswitches-Just Click Buy It Now Button Below
Beech
Lister Greg G. reports that Bonanzas D-4866 through D-9068 use this BZ-R31
switch. Check your parts catalog to be sure you get the proper part for your
serial number.
Here is the BZ-3YT (SPDT) switch available
for about $24
used in later Baron landing gear systems as the up/down limit switch to
power heater blower motor when gear is down and the 2nd heater fuel pump
when the gear is up. Also possibly used in >D-9068 Bonanzas. AKA
MS25383-1 and AKA AN3216-1.
The BZ-3AT might
also be considered as it does not have the Common terminal which is not
used anyway. Always check your parts catalog to be sure.
Support CSOBeech.com: Buy the BZ-3YT / MS25383-1 Micro switch below:
BUY NOS BZ-3YT / MS25383-1 Below
You
will only get the switch, NOT the lever actuator arm. If you need this arm, it
can be found at Allied Electronics HERE
PN: AD5721R for $14. AKA AN-3169-1 a data sheet on it is
HERE. The arm sleuthing courtesy of Beech Lister Jim H.
Not Cheap, but pays for itself in fuel savings and engine diagnostics!
Get the Fuel Flow option and oil temp probes installed and connect the EDM 760
to your GPS and know your instantaneous NM/gal and Fuel Remaining at
Destination.
Fuel exhaustion is so "Old School"! I would install Fuel Flow
linked to my GPS before I bought a wiz bang GPSS or WAAS stuff, but that's
just me. After all, one of the biggest causes of engine stoppages is fuel
mis-management.
Additionally, if your
engine ever had a runability issue, the data download of the EDM760 can be
sent to any number of engine experts for analysis and greatly shorten your
troubleshooting time.
IMHO, the Model 2620 is an excellent 24v
choice for maintaining your batteries. It will not boil or overcharge your
battery. Been using mine for 4 years and my
Concorde batteries are still quite healthy. Good choice for doing gear swings or when at
the avionics shop or in cold weather climates for that extra "edge" in
cranking power!
Don't be a Gear Collapse
Statistic!
CHANGE YOUR ROD ENDS AND
ACTUATOR ROD SPRINGS SOMETIME BEFORE 4,000 TT some factory manuals and the ABS
organization recommend 2,000 hours!
See below for what happens to a 7,000 hr TT Rod End and see how the tensioning spring is nearly
"Stacked"! This is also known as the "run it 'till it fails"
maintenance philosophy.
Do you have Sloppy Nose
Steering? See the Steering Page
HERE for places to
remove linkage play.
The
Bushing #48 on the idler arm in the Part Diagram is often neglected. If/when you
change bushing #48 ask your mechanic about drilling it and fitting it with a
grease zerk fitting. An experienced Beech Lister has reported that you DO NOT
have to remove the co-pilot rudder pedal shaft to remove this idler arm. Simply
remove the outer hardware and rotate the arm aft to clear the nose gear cavity,
then slide the idler arm off the shaft!
You can use the
Aurora
Rod Ends available from Aircraft Spruce
and others if you want, however, compare the strength specs for yourself, then
decide. CSOB1 is sticking with the Heim bearings, thank you very much!
A HEIM Rod End Cross
Reference Catalog is HERE. Don't forget to put in all new
nut and bolt hardware with your shiny new rod ends. Get great AN and MS hardware
HERE
New Heim Rod End Catalog is at:
Landing
Gear
Nose
Gear Actuator Rod
HM-5S
(1)
Nose
Gear Actuator Rod Front
Aft
Rod
HML-6
(1)
Aft
Rod end, rear
Aft
Rod
HM-5S
(1)
Aft
Rod, front rod end
Nose
Wheel Steering Mechanism
MD46-15
(1)
Aft
rod end, connect to rudder pedals
Nose
Wheel Steering Mechanism
HM-4
(1)
Front
Flexible steering link
Right
Main Doors
HM-4
(4)
Outer
gear door
Right
Main Actuating Rod
HM-6
(1)
In
board gear door
Left
Main Doors
HM-4
(4)
Outer
gear door
Left
Main Actuating Rods
HM-6
(1)
In
board gear door
Ailerons
Right
Assy
HM4
(1)
control
rod
Right
Assy
HML-4
(1)
control
rod
Left
Assy
HM4
(1)
control
rod
Left
Assy
HML-4
(1)
control
rod
Aft
Fuselage
Differential
Cntrl Assy
MD46-15
(4)
Differential
Push Rods
Do not completely rely on this
chart! Check your Parts Catalog to be
sure OR, remove what is on your plane and replace with the same size rod end.
Above Chart Courtesy of:
www.vintagebonanza.com
The HM5 is a
smaller rod end 5/16" x 24 that was used in the
earlier nose gear linkage designs (with HM6 at the transmission arm).
The next iteration of gear rods used a heavier 3/8" x 24 shaft which is
the HMX5
(and the heavier HMX6 at the transmission arm).
One can look up the specs of the HM and HMX rod ends in the
Heim
Catalog. You will note that the rod ends WITHOUT a
lubricator (grease zerk or flush grease fitting) have significantly higher
strength. You and your mechanic decide what you want to do there, especially if
you find the factory selection to be without a lubrication fitting.
As of 9/13/2018, HEIM had no stock on HMX5 rod ends, so here is
a SealMaster Rod End
bearing catalog that you can compare specs to the HEIM
specs. You might look at ARE5-20 on Page J-15. Also, HEIM lists the SealMaster
ARE-5-20 as an interchange for their HMX5 in this
Interchange Guide. Look
at Page 4 of the HEIM
Interchange Guide for the reference.
I believe the ADNE5-323 is a PN that Beech brought to market when they moved off
the Heim brand HMX5 rod end and went to a rod end made by Aurora Bearing. Check
the specs on the Aurora rod ends
HERE to compare to
the Heim product. This ADNE5 PN might likely appear in later model Beech parts
catalogs.
Checking your
older IPC or removing your existing rod ends is
the surest way to determine what rod ends your aircraft was fitted with
from the factory. Or, as I think about it, you could take a caliper
under there and check the diameter of the shaft. If
5/16" (nominally 0.3125") then you have a HM5, if 3/8" (nominally
0.375") then you have a HMX5.
If you need any HEIM rod ends, please check out the CSOBeech.com
offering below. Your purchases support this site.
TCM has received field reports that the oil filter mounting stud on the oil
filter adapter housing of
some engines have become loose allowing the stud to screw into the housing and
provide less than
the specified stud extension. Check this
SB to see if it applies to your
engine.
To Provide
A Leak Test Procedure To Insure Integrity Of Basic Fuel Pump Fuel Seal On Fuel
Pump Assemblies Manufactured Between July 1, 1998 And May 31, 2000.
IO-240, IO-360,
IO-346, O-470-G7, O-470-G10, O-470-GCI, IO-470, GIO-470, IO-520, LIO-520,
IO-550, GIO-550, LTSIO-360, TSIO-360, TSIO-470, TSIO-520, TSIO-550, TSIOL-550,
GTSIO-520 model engines with P/N 642932-1, 2, 3 & 4 basic fuel pump
manufactured between July 1, 1998, and May 31, 2000.
Any of the above
listed engine models that have had a new or rebuilt engine driven fuel pump
installed between July 1, 1998, and November 26, 2000. Any of the above listed
engine models that have had an engine driven fuel pump overhauled using a new
P/N 642932-1, 2, 3, or 4 basic fuel pump between July 1, 1998, and November 26,
2000.
If you fly in IMC for much at
all, please consider some form of Voltmeter or
alternator out annunciation light
for your panel. Early warning of an alternator failure or bus voltage problem
BEFORE the battery is DEAD is very helpful, IMHO.
Big airplane saving tip
follows: If you experience an alternator failure in flight (and don't know how
long you were without charging because you don't have a voltmeter or alternator
out light), if you extend the gear with the battery PLEASE give a check of the
crank counterclockwise to confirm that you have a FULL extension and only about
1/4 turn to the mechanical stop of the transmission sector gear. When your plane
is on jacks sometime and the gear is down, give a few turns of the crank
CLOCKWISE and see how few turns it takes to break the nose gear down lock arm
from over center. Click HERE
to get a
visual of what about 8 missing turns looks like on the down lock
V-brace. You really want to make sure, via the crank, that your
weakened battery got the gear completely down.