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Used in Landing Gear & Flap Limit Switches. Carrying one of these in your little box of spares
in your plane might be a good idea. Imagine being on a trip and your flaps get stuck because
one of the limit switches failed. CSOB Source of BZ-R31
HERE Only $14.28!!! You
can get them from Online Components
HERE for an amazing $5.44! Or you
can get the BZ-R31 for $8.23 if you buy 5 from Allied Electronics
Allied also has many other micro switches for your Beechcraft. Beech
Lister Greg G. reports that Bonanzas D-4866 through D-9068 use this BZ-R31
switch. Check your parts catalog to be sure you get the proper part for your
Here is the BZ3YT switch available for about $24
used in later Baron landing gear systems and possibly >D-9068 Bonanzas. AKA MS25383-1.
Check your parts catalog to be sure.
will only get the switch, NOT the lever actuator arm. If you need this arm, it
can be found at Allied Electronics HERE
PN: AD5721R for $14. AKA AN-3169-1 a data sheet on it is
HERE. The arm sleuthing courtesy of Beech Lister Jim H.
Here is more switch info from Beech Lister Greg
As you know, no one seems to make the MS25026-1
(or AN3210-1) version of the BZ-R31 anymore, but here's a real cheap source for
the commercial equivalent:
Not Cheap, but pays for itself in fuel savings and engine diagnostics!
Get the Fuel Flow option and oil temp probes installed and connect the EDM 760
to your GPS and know your instantaneous NM/gal and Fuel Remaining at
Fuel exhaustion is so "Old School"! I would install Fuel Flow
linked to my GPS before I bought a wiz bang GPSS or WAAS stuff, but that's
just me. After all, one of the biggest causes of engine stoppages is fuel
Additionally, if your
engine ever had a runability issue, the data download of the EDM760 can be
sent to any number of engine experts for analysis and greatly shorten your
IMHO, the Model 2620 is an excellent 24v
choice for maintaining your batteries. It will not boil or overcharge your
battery. Been using mine for 4 years and my
Concorde batteries are still quite healthy. Good choice for doing gear swings or when at
the avionics shop or in cold weather climates for that extra "edge" in
Don't be a Gear Collapse
CHANGE YOUR ROD ENDS AND
ACTUATOR ROD SPRINGS SOMETIME BEFORE 4,000 TT some factory manuals and the ABS
organization recommend 2,000 hours!
See below for what happens to a 7,000 hr TT Rod End and see how the tensioning spring is nearly
"Stacked"! This is also known as the "run it 'till it fails"
Do you have Sloppy Nose
Steering? See the Steering Page
HERE for places to
remove linkage play.
Bushing #48 on the idler arm in the Part Diagram is often neglected. If/when you
change bushing #48 ask your mechanic about drilling it and fitting it with a
grease zerk fitting. An experienced Beech Lister has reported that you DO NOT
have to remove the co-pilot rudder pedal shaft to remove this idler arm. Simply
remove the outer hardware and rotate the arm aft to clear the nose gear cavity,
then slide the idler arm off the shaft!
A manufacturer Rod End Cross
Reference Catalog is
HERE Don't forget to put in all new
nut and bolt hardware with your shiny new rod ends. Get great AN and MS hardware
New Heim Rod End Catalog is at:
Gear Actuator Rod
Gear Actuator Rod Front
Rod end, rear
Rod, front rod end
Wheel Steering Mechanism
rod end, connect to rudder pedals
Wheel Steering Mechanism
Flexible steering link
Main Actuating Rod
board gear door
Main Actuating Rods
board gear door
Do not completely rely on this
chart! Check your Parts Catalog to be
sure OR, remove what is on your plane and replace with the same size rod end.
Above Chart Courtesy of:
The HM5 is a smaller rod end 5/16" x 24 that was used in the
earlier nose gear linkage designs (with HM6 at the transmission arm). The next iteration of gear rods used a heavier 3/8" x 24 shaft which is the HMX5
(and the heavier HMX6 at the transmission arm).
One can look up the specs of the HM and HMX rod ends in the
Catalog. You will note that the rod ends WITHOUT a
lubricator (grease zerk or flush grease fitting) have significantly higher
strength. You and your mechanic decide what you want to do there, especially if
you find the factory selection to be without a lubrication fitting.
I believe the ADNE5-323 is a PN that Beech brought to market when they moved off
the Heim brand HMX5 rod end and went to a rod end made by Aurora Bearing. Check
the specs on the Aurora rod ends
HERE to compare to
the Heim product. This ADNE5 PN might likely appear in later model Beech parts
Checking your older IPC or removing your existing rod ends is
the surest way to determine what rod ends your aircraft was fitted with from the factory. Or, as I think about it, you could take a caliper under there and check the diameter of the shaft. If
5/16" (nominally 0.3125") then you have a HM5, if 3/8" (nominally 0.375") then you have a HMX5.
If you need any HEIM rod ends, please check out the CSOBeech.com
offering below. Your purchases support this site.
TCM has received field reports that the oil filter mounting stud on the oil
filter adapter housing of
some engines have become loose allowing the stud to screw into the housing and
provide less than
the specified stud extension. Check this
SB to see if it applies to your
A Leak Test Procedure To Insure Integrity Of Basic Fuel Pump Fuel Seal On Fuel
Pump Assemblies Manufactured Between July 1, 1998 And May 31, 2000.
IO-346, O-470-G7, O-470-G10, O-470-GCI, IO-470, GIO-470, IO-520, LIO-520,
IO-550, GIO-550, LTSIO-360, TSIO-360, TSIO-470, TSIO-520, TSIO-550, TSIOL-550,
GTSIO-520 model engines with P/N 642932-1, 2, 3 & 4 basic fuel pump
manufactured between July 1, 1998, and May 31, 2000.
Any of the above
listed engine models that have had a new or rebuilt engine driven fuel pump
installed between July 1, 1998, and November 26, 2000. Any of the above listed
engine models that have had an engine driven fuel pump overhauled using a new
P/N 642932-1, 2, 3, or 4 basic fuel pump between July 1, 1998, and November 26,
If you fly in IMC for much at
all, please consider some form of Voltmeter or
alternator out annunciation light
for your panel. Early warning of an alternator failure or bus voltage problem
BEFORE the battery is DEAD is very helpful, IMHO.
Big airplane saving tip
follows: If you experience an alternator failure in flight (and don't know how
long you were without charging because you don't have a voltmeter or alternator
out light), if you extend the gear with the battery PLEASE give a check of the
crank counterclockwise to confirm that you have a FULL extension and only about
1/4 turn to the mechanical stop of the transmission sector gear. When your plane
is on jacks sometime and the gear is down, give a few turns of the crank
CLOCKWISE and see how few turns it takes to break the nose gear down lock arm
from over center. Click HERE to get a
visual of what about 8 missing turns looks like on the down lock V-brace. You really want to make sure, via the crank, that your
weakened battery got the gear completely down.